TELUGU WEDDING Part-1; THE PRE-MARITAL CEREMONIAL CLEANSING

The pleasant breeze comforts the humid bodies stressed out in summer heat. Trees nod in unison confirming  the sweetness of that sensation. The birds are just back after a busy day out. The crickets rustle in rhythm as if they are the orchestra of the evening.

I sit in a wooden push back chair welcoming the guests trickling in well past the scheduled time. My mother calls me in with a tone of urgency. I quickly change from Peter England formals to a vest and Lungi- the south Indian attire of the layman which can be confused to a bed sheet tied round the waist and well known for its comfort.

A neighbor who is well versed with the traditions of wedding brings a chalk to a place in the verandah  cleaned by a bucket of water. She artistically draws a floral design. A plastic stool is arranged and I am asked to get seated over it. My nephew who is 8 years is asked for and he appears more out of compulsion than curiosity. He is the best man and he gets a similar place next to me. He mumbles in exasperation “when will this finish?” I ask him, ‘Are you busy?’ He replies, ‘I need to play my video game!’ I wave in agreement.

Women of all ages now flock around me. My cousin sister begins the ceremony with a prayer. A choir emerges with a quick chorus from Andhra Christian Hymnal- those legendary songs that were sung from umpteen generations. A huge plate with turmeric in a bowl and rice seasoned with the same is presented to me. As I pose for the pictures, my cousin who is the organizer of the event hands me over a small package. A pair of bananas, a pair of Betel leaves and nut. As I receive them, turmeric rice is put over my forehead thrice as the choir team continues to sing of the Father, Son and the Holy Spirit.

My mom in a mixed feeling of joy and sorrow comes over with my dad. Both start the ritual of putting the yellow over my head and the more devotional ones add a cross over my forehead as they pass in turns. Another keen assistant takes the bowl of turmeric and starts to apply it over the feet of all the women present.

One round of application finishes. And I pity my scalp and the tough ingredients it has to encounter. I get up hoping it is over. I am pulled back to my seat. Coconut oil is applied over the turmeric and rice that have already intruded into the few well kempt areas of my body. I think of my pitiful state of my hair.

My cousin does the grand finale. She takes the cup of that spice that has already filled the air and begins to caress my back and trunk. She then puts it over my legs and feet. The cup has not been emptied. She looks at me and asks “can I apply once more please? It’s not over yet!” I agree in embarrassment. Once more my body is eclipsed by thick layer of herbal yellow.

My sister is busy clicking pictures all along. She suddenly whispers that it is over. I am asked to go and have a shower. My vest and Lungi become the ochre versions of their former selves. I am surprised by the Santoor soap and Dove shampoos awaiting me. As I get wet and busy with getting rid of the herbal color I see a string of new things being kept over the rusty bathroom door. A new towel, a new Lungi, inner garments decorate the area. I come out in immaculate white.

My mom and sisters wait with sweets and pounce upon me to feed. The avalanche of their love surprises me. My cousin prays for me marking the end of it all and runs into kitchen for the dinner that is to follow.

My niece, another one rightly remarks, “From now on you are a bridegroom. You will receive royal treatment for a week from now.”

The whole ordeal is called Nalugu in Telugu. It is the ceremonial cleansing of the bride and groom in their homes by relatives. It is usually accompanied with friends and neighbors gathering for a time of singing and dancing. Usually these baths are conducted in a sum total of an odd number. The first is organized by the aunt of the groom and since my aunt (dad’s sister) is no more, her children do it for me. For the next three days, I am scheduled to have 13 such turmeric baths.

“Did you have a good bath?” asked another cousin of mine. I said ‘yes’. He touches my back and dusts few grams of turmeric. I smile sheepishly and go back to the bathroom. Another thorough scrub begins!!!